Motorcycle Diary: The Road to Kalianda

Samuel Bashfield turns his motorcycle into a ‘tool for adventure’ as he travels in search of the rich sights and sounds of Indonesia.  (JG Photos/ Samuel Bashfield)

When the average Indonesian considers the humble motorcycle or scooter, many see it as a tool. They view motorbikes as a tool for transportation, a tool for convenience, and often a tool for slipping in between cars on Jakarta’s congested road network.

I also see the motorbike as a tool. The difference is, I see motorbikes as a tool for adventure, a tool for freedom, and a tool for excitement. Limiting the use of motorcycles to inner-city and suburban roads is a shame, as on the open road, the motorbike is in its element. On the open road, motorcycles are exhilarating.

Traveling by motorcycle is by far the best way to see, enjoy, and experience Indonesia. Having the freedom to stop anywhere, talk to anyone, and feel the breeze in my face beats bus travel any day. During my time in Indonesia, I motorcycled around Central Java, and recently completed a month-long solo tour from Banda Aceh to Jakarta in support of charity. You could say I’m hooked.

In order to get my next fix, I organized a trip with an Australian buddy, Jono, to the south of Lampung province in Sumatra, specifically to a little seaside town called Kalianda. I had stopped here on an earlier trip, and loved the relaxed, and yet-to-be-commercialized beaches, with views of Anak Krakatau island volcano in the distance.

It was a miserable, drizzly day when we left Jakarta, heading west for bluer skies. Despite the ride being interrupted by patches of rain, we made it to the ferry, in time to listen to the slumping music of the mega sound system onboard. The dangdut music was so loud, and despite despondent faces of those listening, they sat as close to the speakers as possible.

The Kalianda beaches did not disappoint. It is amazing how close this beautiful part of the world is to Jakarta, yet is unspoiled by pollution and rubbish. Crossing the Sunda Strait brings travellers to a totally different world. A world of blue skies, and green landscapes, where traditional life reigns, and the chaos of Java is largely unknown. In Jakarta, when I say I’m from Melbourne, I am often asked how long it takes to fly there. When in Sumatra, I am often asked how long it takes to reach Melbourne by bus. There exists an element of innocence, which warms me to the people of Sumatra.

For those who are yet to experience Lampung, I’d highly recommend a trip to Canti Beach, just south of Kalianda. They charge Rp 10,000 (82 cents) entry for two people and a motorbike, and the beach is equipped with shaded wooden huts, perfect to enjoy a meal or a drink before swimming. For entertainment, the local children will come over for a chat, allowing the perfect opportunity to practice Indonesian, and to ask about local life. The children are supremely confident, and are keen to practice their English.

Despite the spectacular beaches and delicious foods, the roads were the major drawcard in Lampung. Snaking through villages, up hills and beside the sea, motorcycle riding here is exhilarating. There are endless obstacles not limited to chickens and goats, but also including potholes and patches of sand. Maintaining a clean line along these roads is imperative and rewarding. This twisting, empty strip of bitumen made me forget about Jakarta’s stop-start roads and reminded me of what motorcycles are designed for.

Motorcycles briefly aside, a trip to Kalianda is incomplete without visiting their port, which by night, turns into a culinary haven. The pier is popular with locals enjoying the dusk hours while eating and drinking a variety of foods. Jono and I enjoyed some excellent siomay .

For those inspired to take their motorcycle out of Jakarta, my one recommendation is to buy the appropriate gear. Quality boots, a motorcycle-specific protective jacket, and gloves are essential.

Motorcycling is inherently dangerous, and long-distance riding increases your chance of having an accident. My theory is risk-minimization, hence, having the right gear will help should you come off. The right gear also provides for protection from the sun, essential when while riding for days at a time. Lastly, riding at night is never ideal. The chances of getting lost increase and the availability of fuel in remote areas is often lacking. Furthermore, the threat of bandits and extralegal roadblocks is present at night.

When long-distance motorcycle riding is done safely, it truly provides the best vantage point to enjoy the country. Indonesia is a motorcycle nation, and more Jakartans should remove themselves from their comfort zone and take a spin around the archipelago.

Kalianda can be reached by riding west from Jakarta toward the port of Merak. From Merak, the ferry takes three hours and Kalianda is just another 30 minutes’ ride toward Bandar Lampung from the port.

Read more of Sam’s motorcycle blog at samuelbashfield.wordpress.com

By Samuel Bashfield on 02:56 pm Nov 20, 2014