Steep volcanic cliffs of Wayak Island bay. (Photo courtesy of holidaybackpack.com)
Raja Ampat is the quintessential tropical escape. Set in the crystalline seas off the northwest coast of Papua, this remote archipelago of emerald islands boasts endless white sand beaches, the world’s best diving and Indonesia’s most stunning tropical panoramas.
Yet despite its intense beauty and serene setting, Raja Ampat remains mostly undeveloped. It is an “escape” in the truest sense of the word.
There’s good reason for this paradox. Raja Ampat is expensive and inaccessible relative to other Indonesian tourist destinations like Bali. The lack of tourism infrastructure safeguards Raja Ampat from the environmental degradation and the hoards of budget holiday seekers that plague other more popular holiday destinations in Indonesia.
Essentially, there are three ways to see Raja Ampat: backpacking, packaged tours, or high-end resorts and sailboats.
Each option has its strengths and weaknesses — a balance of cost, convenience and authenticity.
Whichever option you choose, the first step is getting there.
Inexpensive round-trip flights from Jakarta to Sorong are available for as low Rp 1.8 million to Rp 4 million ($185-$410). Once in Sorong you can take a public boat from the harbor for around Rp 120,000 to one of the main island groupings of Raja Ampat: Waigeo, Batanta, Salawati or Misool.
Immediately upon arriving in Raja Ampat, you have to go to the local tourism and cultural agency office to pay a conservation fee.
For locals, the fee is Rp 200,000, but international tourists have to shell out Rp 500,000.
Most tours or high-end resorts will arrange this for you but if you are backpacking you will need to do this by yourself.
Backpacking is the most flexible way to see Raja Ampat. This is a very free and authentic way to explore the islands, though it can be expensive, particularly if traveling solo. Cheap public boats between islands are few and far between and most accommodations and transportation only become cheap when sharing the cost between a group of four or more.
Backpackers arriving in Waisai or Waigeo should search out other travelers to share the booking of either a small private boat for Rp 2 million per day to explore nearby islands, or a larger 20-person boat for Rp 9 million per day to visit the more remote Islands.
Inexpensive lodging is available throughout Raja Ampat. Bungalows and homestays with locals usually accommodate four or more and run around Rp 400,000 per night. The amenities are very basic. Camping on the beach is one of the more magical and budget-friendly options for lodging. Just remember to seek permission from locals before you set up your tent.
If backpacking sounds like too much of a hassle for a holiday, consider booking a packaged tour. This is the cheapest way to explore Raja Ampat, because tours bring together 20 or so people who split the costs of transportation, accommodation, diving and such.
Most packaged tours can be booked out of Sorong or Jakarta, and a quick Google search will yield ample results.
In general, a 7-day, 6-night tour will run about Rp 9 million, while a 5-day, 6-night tour costs around Rp 7 million. Neither includes airfare in and out of Sorong.
There are some downsides to packaged tours. Most only explore the islands around Waigeo (the nearest to mainland Papua). This means you won’t have the chance to see the most remote islands. Tour groups also make it more difficult to meet locals.
The third option is by far the most luxurious, flexible and expensive. The most affluent of tourists can book a private sailboat for roughly Rp 10 million per day. The route and destination of the charter can be worked out with the captain of the boat and altered en route. Needless to say, at such a high price most things are included.
A good alternative to renting a sailboat is booking a week at a high-end, all-inclusive resort. This runs about Rp 27 million, and includes things like transportation to and from Sorong as well as diving excursions. Such resorts can be found on any of the four major islands of Raja Ampat: Waigeo, Batanta, Salawati or Misool.
Anyway you get there, you’ll come away from Raja Ampat feeling like you just left a slice of heaven on earth.
Mori and Prins have lived and traveled throughout Indonesia for years. Together they run the travel blogwww.holidaybackpack.com
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