A study has found that keeping manta rays alive can bring a substantial boost in tourism receipts. (JG Photo/Christian Nielsen)
There’s a saying in the world of diving: “If you want a guarantee, buy a fish tank.”
The mantra refers to the fact that the ocean, and all six million square kilometers of it in Indonesia, pays heed to chance and desire. And while Indonesia boasts thousands of dive spots, with legendary visibility and unequivocal biodiversity, there is no such thing as a guarantee. Unless of course, you are diving Manta Point.
It’s just before seven in the morning on the sleepy island of Nusa Lembongan, the little-known diver’s paradise off the southeast coast of Bali. Above the sound of excess air escaping from scuba tanks, Sarah Wormald is double-checking her gear, going over a lengthy checklist in her head and preparing to chaperone a handful of divers down to see Indonesia’s biggest tourist attraction. A few matronly clouds glide across the sky.
The Indonesian government recently announced the world’s largest manta sanctuary, and Manta Point, a quick 45-minute boat ride from World Diving Lembongan, is one of just a handful of places in Indonesia where people can come and dive and snorkel with these massive and majestic creatures.
Manta Point off southeast Bali is one of just a handful of places in Indonesia where people can come and dive and snorkel with the majestic creatures. (JG Photo/Christian Nielsen)
Boasting wingspans of up to 5.5 meters and the largest brain-to-body ratio of any fish, the social, intelligent and curious manta rays don’t only attract divers from around the world — the curious mantas are also prone to the nets and fishing lines of trawlers.
Manta rays are worth 2,000 times more alive than sprawled out dead in a fish market. A single manta ray is worth an estimated $1 million in dive tourism revenue over the course of its life. At a fish market, meanwhile, a manta ray can go from anywhere between $40 and $500, depending on its size.
Meanwhile, mantas bring an estimated $15 million in tourism revenue, according to a study in the online journal PLoS One. Indonesia is second only to the Maldives in terms of tourist revenue generated by mantas.
Tiene Gunawan, the Conservation International Indonesia marine program director, is quick to point out that while the move by the government is no doubt a great first step, it is just that.
“The term sanctuary should be interpreted as a safe haven,” Tiene says. “Such that for manta rays, Indonesia’s waters is their safe haven where they are fully protected.”
Indonesia is home to two important manta species: Manta birostris, or oceanic manta, which migrate across the ocean, and Manta alfredi, or reef manta. Both populations are declining at alarming rates. Currently both mantas are considered “vulnerable to extinction” by the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. It is important for Indonesia because it shows the commitment of Indonesian government providing a safe haven of manta rays ensuring the population.
Wormald agrees, saying the sanctuary is a huge step forward and shows that Indonesia is recognizing the importance of protecting manta rays.
“It is still very early days, but by protecting manta rays Indonesia’s tourism industry could increase, which directly benefits local economies,” Wormald says. “And it’ not just dive centers, but local guest houses, warungs, transport operators and numerous other local and nationwide businesses. Not to mention the obvious benefits to manta ray populations across the archipelago.”
But maybe the most exciting aspect of the Manta Sanctuary is that the legislation was a culmination of a grassroots campaign that created such a groundswell that policy makers were forced to sit up and take notice.
Conservation International, Tiene explains, has been working hand-in-hand with policy makers, providing them with the scientific research and information required for better policy decisions.
“With proper and relevant information, in this case the information on the economics of manta rays, the government has the justifications to decide on the policy on manta protection,” she says.
Fighting right alongside Tiene and Wormald are people like Riyanni Djangkaru, the editor-in-chief of Dive Mag Indonesia.
“It’s a warm feeling to have one voice when it comes to protecting mantas,” Riyanni says. “It also shows us that at some point the government actually listened to scientists sharing the data and citizens are responding with one voice. That doesn’t always happen. We were all a part of history.”
And with Indonesia boasting six million square kilometers of ocean, conservationists are providing local fishermen and their children with education about methods that reduce by-catch and are non-destructive rather than using long lines or dynamite. Increased education concerning which species to fish and how to rotate the reefs to prevent single areas or species from becoming overfished can also be beneficial. Meanwhile, World Diving Lembongan does its part, employing local Divemasters who the dive center trains to professional levels for free.
“The people of Indonesia refer to Indonesia as ‘tanah air kita,’ which literally means ‘our land and water,’” Wormald explains. “Indonesia’s waters are capable of sustaining local communities as they have done for centuries.”
And while large-scale fishing is a different conversation in and of itself, simply stopping the sale of manta rays at local fish markets would be a huge step in the right direction.
One of the best spots to catch a glimpse of the graceful rays is Manta Point on the south side of Nusa Penida, a five-minute boat ride from World Diving Lembongan. (JG Photo/Christian Nielsen)
One of the best spots to catch a glimpse of the graceful rays is Manta Point on the south side of Nusa Penida, a five-minute boat ride from World Diving Lembongan. Manta Point is a bustling cleaning station. For Wormald, the mere mention of Manta Point ignites a flurry of “best of” moments.
“Diving at Manta Point last year with the rays, there was one female being pursued by 12 males, in what is called a mating train. The female was swooping and diving and banking from left to right and the line of males followed her every move. It was an amazing sight to watch, 13 of these enormous rays ‘flying’ in synchronization. It was very humbling to witness something so special,” she says.
Wormald, who has been diving since 1999, first visited Indonesia on a gap year. Fully aware of the legendary dive spots in Indonesia, the Yorkshire native soon decided to set out on developing a bucket list of dive spots across the archipelago.
“I first visited Nusa Lembongan in 2007, when I dived with World Diving Lembongan, which is where I now work, I fell in love with the island immediately — the people here are friendly and the island has a strong sense of local culture, which has not been lost through the onset of tourism,” she says. “There are still ceremonies almost daily; the sunsets while the children play on the beach and the diving is among the best in Indonesia.”
The diving bucket list quickly morphed into a 320-page book: “The Complete Guide to Diving Indonesia,” slated for release this year by Periplus Publishing, covers all of the main diving areas in Indonesia and includes dive site maps, descriptions, and regional and area information.
The book, which also provides logistical and planning advice, highlights operators following environmentally aware practices and safe diving standards. Wormald’s dive guide also includes recommendations and rules for diving with manta rays as well as insightful information on how to be a responsible marine tourist.
By Zack Petersen on 03:15 pm Jun 08, 2014
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