Hoga in the Wakatobi islands off Southesat Sulawesi is the perfect place to explore untouched marine life and relax in peace and quiet. (JG Photo/Morgan Petterson)
If you are searching for an island getaway with world-class reefs but without the crowds, then the little-known island chain of Wakatobi ticks all of the boxes.
Located off the coast of Southeast Sulawesi, Wakatobi, is an open secret among the world’s divers, yet nobody else seems to have heard of it.
Free from the mass tourism that has overrun destinations such as Bali, the Wakatobi islands may lack the same
facilities but it is a perfect way to get back to basics and marvel at Indonesia’s natural beauty.
facilities but it is a perfect way to get back to basics and marvel at Indonesia’s natural beauty.
The name Wakatobi is an acronym of the first letters of the four main islands: Wangi-Wangi, Kaledupa, Tomia and Binongko.
The Wakatobi National Marine Park comprises both the islands and surrounding ocean, spanning an area of 1.4 million hectares with one of the highest numbers of reef and fish species in the world.
Over 150 islands make up the island chain but only seven are inhabited with one in particular offering a tropical island getaway with minimal crowds.
Hoga is one of the smaller inhabited islands off Kaledupa’s coast and boasts some of the best reefs in the archipelago.
A small island with a rustic charm it is the perfect destination for those wanting to get away from the hustle and bustle of Jakarta and instead lay back and relax in a hammock.
Getting there
Part of the charm of Wakatobi is its remoteness but this does make it slightly more difficult to reach. Have no fear, with a little planning you will find it a breeze.
Wings Air and Express Air fly to the airport on Wangi-Wangi with all flights first stopping in either Makassar or
Kendari, both in Southeast Sulawesi, before continuing on to Wakatobi.
Kendari, both in Southeast Sulawesi, before continuing on to Wakatobi.
Alternatively you can take one of the many boats that sail from Kendari to Bau-Bau and then on to Wakatobi but with that taking 12 hours or more, the quickest way is to fly.
Arriving from the air you can catch a glimpse of the reef that fringes Wangi-Wangi, visible through crystal clear water.
Boats depart once a day to the next island of Kaledupa and a one-way trip will set you back Rp 50,000 ($4) with the boats scheduled to leave after the daily planes have landed.
The boat journey takes two hours and you pass smaller islands on the way.
Approaching Kaledupa you may think that you have arrived at the port as you pass a large number of traditional houses on stilts. It was not until a woman in a small canoe passed the boat and disappeared underneath the houses that I realized we were passing a floating village.
The village with its traditional woven houses is home to the Bajo, a people who has lived on the water in this region since time immemorial. From Kaledupa it is only a quick journey in a small boat to Hoga.
Hoga Island
A well-known destination for divers, Hoga also has a lot to offer for those not wanting to explore beneath the surface. There is only one place to stay on the island, although a second resort was under construction during my stay.
The Hoga Island Resort is not what many people might imagine when they think of a resort. Throw away your ideas of five-star luxury and instead go prepared to experience the simple beauty of nature.
The resort hosts six stilt huts made from coconut tree wood featuring double beds, mosquito nets and hammocks on each balcony. Electricity is provided for a few hours each night by generator.
With no roads or vehicles you really are going to feel as though you have landed on your own castaway island.
There is a permanent population in a village on the northern part of the island, only accessible by beach from the resort during low tide. The island also boasts many pre-marked paths that you can use to discover the interior, which is a great way to escape the heat. Just make sure you don’t get lost and miss lunch.
During low tide it is possible to walk around parts of the island normally cut off by the ocean. Walking along the palm-tree-lined beaches scattered with shells and crabs you can watch local fishermen pass by on their boats waving hello.
Sunsets in this part of Indonesia are hard to beat and after a long day of exploring, sitting back in a hammock
on the beach watching the sunset is the perfect way to end a day.
on the beach watching the sunset is the perfect way to end a day.
Underwater paradise
For those wanting to dive or snorkel on the offshore reefs, where else can you have a boat to yourself and dive without anyone else on the same reef?
Conservation efforts have been boosted to protect the reefs around Wakatobi and the results are starting to pay off with an abundance of coral and marine life.
The Wakatobi National Marine Park boasts a large number of reefs and diving spots but the best really are around Hoga Island. In fact many people staying on the main island of Wangi-Wangi and at the dive resort island of Bingko come by boat to dive the reefs off Hoga, so it is better to save yourself the time and stay on the island.
Hoga has a single long jetty at one end along which you can snorkel the reef for an easy and relaxed swim close to shore. During the high season between July and September the island is bustling as divers and researchers from around the world arrive to conduct studies of the reef as part of the conservation effort Operation Wallacea.
If traveling to Hoga Island during this time, booking accommodation ahead of your arrival is essential.
With mass tourism yet to reach the island, this is the perfect place to go to explore untouched marine life and relax in peace and quiet. Wakatobi really makes you feel as though you are seeing the best of everything Indonesia has to offer.
By Morgan Pettersson on 01:11 pm Jun 19, 2014
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