With memories fresh from its last eruption in 2002, Papandayan’s vistas offer volcanic scenery at their most raw and brutal; stark, dead trees stand sentinel amid the fine ashen plain. (JG Photo/Ennisa Sonia)
For most people living in Jakarta vacationing in West Java means a trip to cities like Bandung and Bogor.
But those fancying more outdoor activities there’s not much else besides climbing the overcrowded Mount Gede, Mount Pangrango or venturing into the surrounding national park, Mount Ciremai near Cirebon or rafting spots frequented by tourists and amateurs. Or so Jakartans think.
Nestling amid the mountains of West Java, the town of Garut, located 60 kilometers southeast of Bandung was once known by the Dutch as the Switzerland of Java with its cool temperature and picturesque scenery.
The town is surrounded by three mountains, Cikuray, Papandayan and Guntur — the latter two are active volcanoes — which all provide a relatively modest climb and easy trek while offering breathtaking views and virgin wildlife.
I decided to climb Papandayan along with a few friends who like me are just occasional climbers out to unwind and have a good time.
Papandayan
Like many who want to climb the volcano, which rises to 2,665 meters above sea level, a gas station at the foot of the mountain served as our gathering point.
The gas station, in a Garut area called Tanjung, is home to scores of pickup cars for hire that transport goods and sometimes climbers to Cisurupan village, the mountain’s gateway and starting point for our ascent to the summit.
The trip from the gas station to Cisurupan is around 90 minutes. Halfway up, the road turns from silky smooth asphalt to dirt topped with crushed stones and gravel to stop vehicles from skidding.
Sometimes the pickup truck that we hired struggled to climb, so we were told to get off and occasionally give the pickup truck, laden with our heavy gear, a push.
Cisurupan is home to the trek’s first base camp, amusingly called Camp David. It doesn’t look presidential, but there you can stretch your legs, maybe sample the simple stalls selling food and soft drinks or perhaps shop among other stalls carrying all sorts of souvenirs and knickknacks.
It was already afternoon when we got to Cisurupan so our team leader Teguh suggested we make our way to Pondok Saladah, a lodge where we would all rest for the night. It was a two hour trek to Pondok Saladah.
The first 30 minutes was easy as we traversed through lines of trees and level cobblestoned pathways. But then the trek started to climb and we had to be careful where we stepped as the trek was slippery in places.
As we walked up the hill, the pungent smell of sulfur began permeating the air, making breathing difficult. Our lungs and throats were starting to feel as if they were on fire.
A friend told us to put a piece of wet cloth over our mouth and nose to stop the nauseating, toxic fumes. The volcano last erupted in 2002 and is considered extremely active.
As the sun was slowly setting over the horizon we came across a forest of dead trees. It was a barren landscape dotted with charred trees sitting on top of white volcanic sands. The view was eerily dramatic.
Far in the distance, two other mountains were covered in misty clouds gentling running down their slopes.
At this point, Pondok Saladah, our camping site for the night, was only minutes away.
Chilly nights
The warmth daylight brings was beginning to fade as we set up our tents, replaced by a freezing cold night. We rushed to put on our jackets, gloves and woolly caps that did little to stop the cold.
We made a bonfire which provided much needed warmth. Our bodies trembled as we tried to get some sleep. As if we weren’t freezing enough, it then started to rain.
When daylight arrived, we began dismantling our tents and tidying up our gear. After a quick breakfast, we readied ourselves for our final ascent. The summit was well within our sight.
It was a tiring journey, through a parched landscape and scorching morning sun. Then clouds began to form, providing us with much-needed shade.
The clouds were both a blessing and a curse for they reduced our view of the surrounding landscape once we reached the summit. But most in our team were glad just to make it all the way to the top.
We all headed to Tegal Alun, a vast plain on the other side of the mountain. The meadow was filled with colors as we were just in time to see the flowers in bloom.
It was here that most of us forget about our fatigue. There was only joy and satisfaction of climbing one of West Java’s most picturesque mountains.
Travelling to Garut is worth it for Jakartans tired of visiting the usual places like Bandung and Bogor. It is just five hours from Jakarta but offers stunning natural charms that would entice anyone.
No comments:
Post a Comment